Review: New Club, Brighton
Opposite the crumbling West Pier is a spacious, modern with
a flavour of that now-ubiquitous rend for American diner style barbecue food
and the dreaded “plates”.
We were very early so they changed menus over in the short
time that we sat outside with a drink to peruse the food, but were very
friendly about it and apologised.
We decided to eat indoors as it looked as though it might
bucket down. I didn’t have very high expectations – it seemed quite hip, the young
staff were very relaxed and were chatting to each other a lot (my only gripe is
that this made service slow) and thought, here we go, another burger joint that
is trying too hard. Still, I wasn’t in a hurry and enjoyed people watching
outside.
When the food arrived I was impressed by the presentation.
The Dirty Burger came over on greaseproof paper, sat in an enamel tin bowl, French
fries came in a matching smaller tin and the slaw in a jam jar which gave a
nice rustic look that, I admit although over used everywhere, does look cuter
than a polystyrene McD’s carton. The burger cost £8.50 and they are made with
35 day aged locally sourced Hereford Beef. The patty was cooked slightly medium
but it ws very juicy and still had the right amount of smokiness. Inside the glazed and toasted brioche bun was
the right amount of sticky sweet hickory onion relish, melted Moneterey Jack
cheese, shredded iceberg (the only type of lettuce that belongs in a burger!),
pickled cabbage, gherkins and their own special house sauce. The fries were
also perfectly crisp and well-cooked. The whole meal was utterley delicious and one of the nicest burgers I have had.
They also serve other American classics – mac ’n’ cheese, Caesar
salad, smoked pulled pork, plus brunch
or “hangover” options such as pancakes and bagels which would make a change
from a fry-up in a Brighton caff.
This place has very quickly become popular and may well last
the course, much to my misplaced expectations. Hope so!
